Dear readers, have you explored Route 28 west of Woodstock yet? This isn’t the first time we’ve recommended the experience, for a great many varied reasons, but you really do owe it to yourself. Past the Woodstock turn, Route 28 becomes a twolane country road on which just about every curve reveals something beautiful, intriguing, or both. And there’s a wonderful reward in store for those who venture the 32 miles to Big Indian: the uniquely warm vibe and “Farm to Feast” fare at Peekamoose Restaurant.
The restaurant has been thriving in these hills for over two decades, and they’ve been hard at work this past year on renovations that will make your visit there all the more rewarding.
Owners Marybeth and Devin Mills are doing what they were born to do. Marybeth remembers playing “restaurant” incessantly as a child, and went on to earn a hospitality degree at Boston University and study at L’Ecole Hoteliere in Lausanne, Switzerland; places she’s managed include the Hudson River Club, Picholine, Remi, Mirezi, and the Atlantic Grill.
Devin is a Culinary Institute of America grad who cooked at the Gramercy Tavern and the Michelin- rated Le Bernadin. On their very first date, in 1997, the two discovered their shared dream of owning a restaurant and talked long into the wee hours.
Past Woodstock, there’s a wonderful reward in store for those who venture the 32 miles on Route 28 to Big Indian: Peekamoose Restaurant.
In 2003, the couple purchased a dilapidated farmhouse that had once been Rudi’s Big Indian Country Kitchen and set about making that dream come true, pouring every spare moment and dollar into cleaning, staining, painting, and planning. And ever since the Peekamoose opened its doors that year, the Catskills have had a whole new culinary jewel in their crown and, as the Michelin Guide puts it, “a must-visit foodie destination.”
The menu changes daily, in close collaboration with the best local sources of everything delicious and fresh. “All of our foods are prepared here, on site, with passion and integrity, from freshly butchered whole animals that are broken down in-house to house-made breads and ice creams that are spun fresh daily,” says Marybeth.
“We despise pretense, so things aren’t plated with micro garnishes arranged with tweezers.” Besides the dining room, there’s a tavern with its own pub grub menu.
During the pandemic, the Peekamoose team stepped up to make sure everybody ate. “We kept 100 percent of the staff on board and cooked for Feed the Frontlines, serving the people that were work ing in the nursing homes and hospitals,” says Marybeth, “and we were a part of Project Resilience, delivering meals to homebound people.
We did what was true to our value system, and we were able to continue to do what we loved. We sold takeout on the weekends and people would come to our drive-up window and be so supportive, buy a gift card, just whatever they could do to try and keep us going.”
Ever since the Peekamoose opened its doors in 2003, the Catskills have had, as the Michelin Guide puts it, “a must-visit foodie destination.”
Part of the strategy was refining their outdoor dining game, and their much-loved deck is now cozily enclosed on three sides, with string lights and heaters for chilly evenings. “All of our cooks came outside and built it themselves,” says Marybeth. “Everybody was part of it. People came in and rolled up their sleeves and said, ‘Let’s do it,’ and you had people who normally cook for a living nailing down corrugated plastic ceilings and stuff. It was a lovely time, and we’re very grateful for the way our team stuck with us. So now we have this gorgeous outdoor seating that’s much like the inside—taxidermy and mismatched oriental rugs, deep plush lounge chairs. It’s kind of a magical spot now.”
Another new space is a 1982 rumpus room complete with TV, Atari gaming console, Foosball table, fake wood paneling, stained-glass window and period furniture. “The space under the deck was going to be a bar for the lawn, but that never quite came together, so now we have a rumpus room,” says Marybeth. “You can order drinks on your phone, and we’ll bring them right down.”
“I love being in the middle of nowhere, as this destination spot that’s surrounded by mountains—and we’re lucky to have regulars who love what we do.” – Owner Marybeth Mills
Outdoor movies on the lawn, begun during the pandemic, are too much fun to stop doing. “We just screened PeeWee’s Big Adventure, and it was packed and fabulous, with people shouting out the lines and laughing the whole time,” Marybeth says. “It’s something we really always wanted to do, and we’re keeping it going.” Other special events include collaborations with local beverage makers: a pirate Santa and a rum expert for the holidays, a Great Gatsby evening focused on gin in summer. “We love wine and spirit dinners,” says Marybeth. “So much fun. We did a bourbon and chocolate tasting class—we just love learning and sampling and working with amazing neighbors like Fruition Chocolate Works and the amazing Catskills distilleries. We’re surrounded by great, passionate talent up here.”
Going forward, the Millses wants to host foraging walks followed by feasting on the wild foods found, and “we’d like to do something special on Sundays,” Marybeth says. “Sunday dinners, nothing highbrow—maybe fried chicken and champagne. Something quirky.”
“I love being in the middle of nowhere, as this destination spot that’s surrounded by mountains—a lot of the people that come here do so very intentionally, which is neat,” Marybeth says. “Then too, we’re lucky to have near neighbors who are regulars who love what we do. The hard problem can be keeping the special dinners intimate—we’ll have twenty people sign up, and then some beloved regular calls and asks, ‘Can you please squeeze in our party of five,’ and…But I guess that’s a good problem to have.”
Go taste the love for yourself. The Peekamoose Restaurant is well worth the (lovely) drive.
peekamoose restaurant
8373 State Route 28, Big Indian
845-254-6500
peekamooserestaurant.com
