Executive Chef Kevin Alston says he knew within five minutes of meeting Garvan McCloskey that it was where he was meant to be. Garvan’s Gastropub was the perfect fit.
“I wasn’t quite sure I wanted to change jobs, but this just clicked so well,” he says. “I have full control over the kitchen. We just keep to a simple model, making everything from scratch and cooking from the heart.”
Garvan’s is just a mile from Main Street, but it’s tucked down a long driveway off a side road, in a mid-18th-century house. Going there has the feel of discovering a secret world, distinct from Main Street’s college town vibe but without the least trace of pretense. “We like to make it an experience,” Alston says. “It’s like being welcomed into someone’s home. And I maintain that with the flavors. My motto is to cook what people love and cook it from my whole soul. There’s a good bit of ego in this business; a lot of chefs like to show off, and it’s their way or the highway. That’s just not me. I love getting feedback, and my goal is to please you.”
Despite Irish ownership and a distinct Irish warmth, the menu at Garvan’s isn’t restricted to one particular cuisine. “Our hospitality is Irish, and we do have some homey Irish comfort food dishes on the menu,” Alston says, “but we’ve also got some Asian choices, like the Thai shrimp and Bahn Mi (sesame garlic short rib served with kimchi aioli) for lunch, or red snapper with a ginger soy butter sauce. We have some classical French dishes; scallops over risotto is one of our top sellers.
“I love cooking fall and winter food,” Alston says. “It’s my favorite time of year, all about braising and stews.” – Chef Kevin Alston
And then we have some classic American options, like the braised short ribs that are our main claim to fame. We make our own veal demi-glace, which a lot of places no longer do—it’s a natural reduction of meat stock that’s cooked down for seven or eight hours till it’s almost gelatinous, with a lovely sheen and a deep, intense flavor.” There are also vegetarian options, like the shepherdess pie and grilled cheese made with fig jam, Brie, arugula, and Granny Smith apples.
Alston says the creativity and scope give him a freedom to express himself that he’s never had before. “I’ve worked in places where there are different visions challenging each other; this is the one true place where I’ve been allowed to just come in and actually express myself fully in the kitchen.”
That self-expression wins rave reviews. People say it’s homey, hearty, and all-around delicious, with excellent service, fine whiskey, and a subtly electric vibe. And this is the perfect time of year to give it a try. “I love cooking fall and winter food,” Alston says. “It’s my favorite time of year, all about braising and stews.”
Want to try re-creating some of Chef Kevin’s winter magic at home? Have a go at his lamb stew.
garvan's guinness lamb stew
A hearty mix of flavor and comfort.
Serves 6-8
Prep: 30 min- Cook: 60-90 min
ingredients
- 5 lbs lamb leg meat
- 2-1/2 lbs carrots, diced
- 2-1/2 lbs celery, diced
- 2-1/2 lbs onions , diced
- 2-1/2 lbs potatoes (Yukon Gold or red), cut in half or quartered
- 4-5 garlic cloves, chopped
- 1 quart beef stock
- 1 cup chicken stock
- 2 cups Guinness
- 1/2 lb roux (combine equal parts fat and flour)
- 1/2 oz thyme, chopped
- 1/2 oz rosemary, chopped
- 1-2 cups flour
- 2 tbsp vegetable or canola oil
- 1/2 cup peas
directions
1. Clean lamb leg, removing fat and silver skin. Cut meat into 1/2-inch cubes.
2. Lightly coat lamb cubes with flour and season with salt and pepper.
3. Add oil to pot. When almost smoking, start searing lamb cubes; do it in small batches to ensure you are getting even browning.
4. Cover the lamb with the beef and chicken stock and braise in a 350 °F oven for about 1 hour or until tender.
5. Dice onions, carrots, and celery into large chunks and halve or quarter potatoes into medium-size cubes.
6. Remove the lamb from the stock, reserving the stock for later.
7. In another pot, heat 1 tbsp oil. When hot, add carrots, celery, onion, and garlic. Lightly brown.
8. Deglaze with Guinness. Simmer for 1-2 minutes. Add reserved stock, mix in roux thoroughly, and add potatoes.
9. Cover and simmer on medium heat, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are fork tender (about 90 minutes).
10. Add lamb meat, herbs, and peas, and serve.* Pair with your favorite dry red wine, such as a Bordeaux or Cabernet Sauvignon, or with a nice pint of Guinness.
*Stew is even better the next day, as the flavors have a chance to blend.
garvan's gastropub
215 Huguenot St, New Paltz
845-255-7888
garvans.com
