Photo by Aaron Burden
Come late September into early October, driving around the Hudson Valley and/or Catskills becomes a visual feast. Red, golden and orange, washed by crisp breezes, the leaves are breathtaking and poignant — having shaded us and given us the very air we breathe all through summertime, they astonish us with a last glorious gift before resting.
Leaves take about two weeks to complete the cycle from green to fallen. Naturally, the various high peaks and the north end of the valley come first. Trees atop the Catskills can be fully shed while the Westchester riverbanks are still lush with green, and the peak colors in each spot last for three or four days.
To help you time a leaf-peeping mission, the nice people at iloveny.com issue a foliage report each Wednesday.
Check the weather forecast too, but remember that overcast skies make a glorious backdrop for fall colors. Plan your journey to include either early morning or late afternoon, to catch what photographers call the “magic hours” full of slanting golden light.
Finally, bring the camera; a wide-angle lens is nice, but there are other techniques that can help you get good foliage shots, and pro photographers share them generously on the Internet.
Here are some ideas for planning your voyage, including the attractions you’ll find along the way.
THE SHAWANGUNK LOOP
From New Paltz (New York State Thruway exit 18) head west on Route 299. Once you’re past the village, you’re driving straight into a stunning backdrop of forested mountainside, set off by the gray of the rock faces. At the end of Route 299, take a right onto Route 44/55, and head up the mountain.
Stop at the Mohonk Preserve Visitors Center, where you can learn about the unique ecosystem you’re about to be immersed in. Look for it on the right, just as the road begins to climb. After the hairpin turn, you’ll shortly come to scenic overlook parking where you can stop and admire the Wallkill Valley spread beneath you like a gorgeous quilt.
Come late September into early October, driving around the Hudson Valley and/or Catskills becomes a visual feast.
Lake Minnewaska. Photo by JasonKrieger
Photo by Aaron Blanco-Tejedor.
UP ON THE MOUNTAIN
Leaving the overlook, you pass under a footbridge and are now engulfed in Pure Gunks. You may well feel the urge to get out of your vehicle and immerse yourself even further, and this is highly recommended. Mohonk Preserve will sell you a hiker’s day pass for $20 at the aforementioned visitor’s center or any of the staffed trailheads. After a few more swooping curves, you’ll see the entrance to Minnewaska State Park on your left. For $10 a car, you can drive in and up to a parking lot overlooking a gem of a lake.
As the serpentine drive through the mountains concludes, you’ll find yourself at yet another spectacular scenic overlook revealing the glories of the Rondout Valley with the Catskills as a backdrop to the northwest.
THE RONDOUT VALLEY
Continue down the mountain until you reach Route 209 in about 10 minutes. You are now in the middle of some of the best farm country anywhere, and it’s harvest season. Congratulations! Consider an apple- or pumpkin-picking stop, or just visit a farm stand for a good coffee and something freshly baked. The website of the Rondout Valley Growers Association offers a user-friendly guide to the local agricultural scene.
You may well feel the urge to get out of your vehicle and immerse yourself even further, and this is highly recommended.
The Rosendale Trestle
Making a right on 209, you’ll be headed north through lightly developed farm country with the mountains to your right. To maximize your leafy rural bliss, we suggest keeping a sharp eye out for Lucas Avenue—it will be on your right—a secondary road that runs deep through the farmlands and brings you out on Route 213 just west of High Falls. You can also stay on 209 and access 213 at a traffic light right before you come into the postcard-pretty hamlet of Stone Ridge
Either way, heading east on 213 will take you through High Falls and onward to Rosendale. Nearing the town, you’ll be traveling along the Rondout Creek through a series of sinuous curves. Just before you run out of curves, the road passes under a railroad trestle; immediately before the trestle, take a left up the hill on Binnewater Road to find a parking area and trailhead where you can get out onto the trestle for spectacular views of the hamlet and the Rondout Creek.
That little hamlet, on whose Main Street you will be once you continue your eastward trek on 213, offers eats and drinks, unique shops, and a movie theater. Watch carefully on the left-hand side of the road, and you’ll see a sign for the municipal parking. At the east end of Rosendale’s Main Street, you can make a right onto Route 32 and in 15 minutes you’ll be back in New Paltz—another great place to stop, shop, nosh, or just meander a bit.
Ashokan Reservoir. Photo by Blake83 on iStock Photo.
INTO THE HIGH PEAKS
Route 28 slices through the Catskill Mountains from Kingston to Oneonta and offers yet another set of splendid swaths of foliage interspersed with quirky places to stop and enjoy.
Thruway exit 19 spits you out onto a traffic circle on the western fringe of the city of Kingston. Immediately, you’ll see the exit to Route 28 west. The highway is four lanes for the first few miles, but don’t get tempted to speed up; the sign says 45mph, and they mean it.
Two miles west of Kingston, you’ll see the intersection with Route 28A on your left. This is a 20-mile loop that mostly follows the shoreline of the Ashokan Reservoir, a mainstay of New York City’s water supply, and brings you back out onto 28.
Consider taking this loop, either on your way up into the hills or on your way back; it leads through deep, enchanted forest, and there’s a place where you can park and take a walk along the spillway between the reservoir’s two sides, a spectacular spot to enjoy the interplay between colorful foliage and water.
Ashokan Reservoir. Photo by Blake83 on iStock Photo.
Emerson Resort & Spa.
WEST OF WOODSTOCK
Route 28 slices through the Catskill Mountains from Kingston to Oneonta and offers yet another set of splendid swaths of foliage interspersed with quirky places to stop and enjoy.
Along both 28 and 28A you will notice slightly eerie historic markers for lost towns that were forcibly relocated in the early 20th century to make way for the reservoir. The Ashokan Rail Trail hugs the reservoir’s north shore; you’ll see signs for parking and access, and it’s absolutely worth the detour. 28A rejoins 28 at Boiceville. Continue northwest. You are in leaf-peeper heaven as 28 crosses and re-crosses the Esopus Creek, winding deeper into the hills. You’ll come to Mt. Tremper, home of the Emerson Resort and the world’s largest kaleidoscope, and shortly after that you’ll see signs for Phoenicia, a terrific spot to stop and grab a bite (try the Sportsman’s Alamo Cantina), stretch a bit, or shop for Catskills souvenirs.
NORTHWEST ULSTER TO MARGARETVILLE
Back on 28, you’ll come to a worthwhile scenic overlook on the right. Shortly after that, you’ll arrive in Big Indian, named for a Munsee man of enormous size and strength. The original Big Indian was shot, supposedly for sheep thieving, but more likely because he rescued his European-American love Gertrude from the abusive piece o’ work her family wanted her to marry. You’ll see a statue intended to commemorate him beside the Big Indian post office.
Peekamoose Restaurant
Belleayre Mountain.
Blue Deer Center
Hungry? Big Indian is where you’ll find the Peekamoose Restaurant serving up five-star food and drink, with superb Catskills views from the dining room or deck.
Northwest of Big Indian, the road slopes into a long, steady climb. You’re approaching Highmount, the northernmost tip of Ulster County and the location of Belleayre Mountain, a not-for-profit ski center. There are nice hiking trails of all difficulty levels, whether you want a relaxing stroll or a high peaks adventure; before October 13, you can take a scenic gondola ride to the summit.
One of the most dramatic views of the entire journey awaits as you crest Highmount and begin the descent into Delaware County with the central Catskills opening before you. Soon you’ll see signs for Margaretville, another nifty and historic little Catskill town worth exploring. On Margaretville’s website, you’ll find directions for a self-guided walking tour.
Heading back down 28, take a left as though you were headed back into Phoenicia, but stay on Route 214 as it winds up the mountainside. You’ll pass charming funky properties in the hamlet of Chichester as you climb and traverse the Phoenicia Wild Forest between Hunter and Indian Head mountains.
Or seek solace and spiritual renewal at the Blue Deer Center, a Catskills retreat nestled on sacred land. Immerse yourself in nature, learn ancestral healing practices, and rediscover balance in a supportive community.
Kaaterskill Falls. Photo by Guido Alizo
INTO THE GREAT NORTHERN CATS
After you’ve crested the mountain and descended a ways, make a right onto Route 23A...to drive the Kaaterskill Clove. Kaaterskill Falls is part of a jagged post-glacial ravine. Stop in at the trailhead marker and walk to the falls; you’ll see why one Hudson River School painter after another rendered this stunning spot. Cautionary note: Don’t go beyond the end of the trail. Erosion makes it an extremely dangerous hike past there, even for the experienced. But what you’ll see is plenty lovely enough.
Driving down 23A, you’re traversing some of the most dramatic and fascinating terrain anywhere in the Catskills. Devil’s Kitchen, they call it, and intrepid mountain bikers will tell you they don’t lie. You will be bombarded by a succession of gasp-out-loud gorgeous sights.
At Palenville, you can turn right onto 32A, which will take you back out to 32 and comparative civilization. Your next town will be Saugerties, a great place to stop, stretch, eat, drink, antique, and generally make merry. For more information and things to do along these first two colorful journeys, go to visitulstercountyny.com and greatnortherncatskills.com.
Kaaterskill Falls. Photo by Guido Alizo
SULLIVAN SERENDIPITY
For a dramatic start to your Sullivan Catskills leaf-peeping mission, start from Port Jervis and follow Route 97 to Hawk’s Nest, which will provide you with an excellent, literal overview of the Delaware River. Driving down into this panorama, you’re entering the town of Lumberland and driving on what once was the bed of the Delaware and Hudson Canal. The Delaware meets the Mongaup River here.
Route 97 leads you along the Delaware Water Gap — that’s Pennsylvania across the water, the onetime coal country of the Northeast. The whole area is laced with water recreation opportunities and cute hamlets like Knight’s Eddy, Pond Eddy, and Barryville.
ALONG THE RIVERSIDE
Stop for lunch in the hamlet of Narrowsburg, tiny and lovely, jammed with art, cool shopping, and great food. Stay on 97 and head northwest, up along the river through Cochecton (thought to be derived from a Lenape word for foaming water) to Callicoon, where you can visit Black Walnut, a mercantile/homeware shop/cocktail lounge housed in a 19th-century hotel, along with some funky antique shops and the Callicoon Brewing Company.
For a truly immersive leaf-peeping adventure in this area, Landers River Trips is open until the second weekend in October for rafting, canoeing, and kayak excursions. They’ve been in business since 1955 and operate locations in Barryville, Narrowsburg, and Callicoon; you can choose a short trip or a longer one, over flat stretches or whitewater. You can even bring the dog along.
Bethel Woods Center for the Arts.
Dove Trail. Photo by rockandrollrdh. Art by Kim Simons.
HIPPIE HISTORY HERE
On land, head east on Route 17B from Callicoon to Bethel, where the Bethel Woods Center for the Arts occupies the site of the 1969 Woodstock Festival and maintains a nifty 1960s museum. They’ve got a blowout Harvest Festival happening Sundays through October 6. At White Lake, you can turn onto Route 55 and head north through lake country, pond country, and west-branch-of-the-Mongaup River country. You’ll be tracing the shores of two reservoirs and passing through Grahamsville, home of the Chestnut Creek Covered Bridge, before heading up and over the mountain ridge and back to Route 209 at Wawarsing, an hour north of where you began. This is just one Sullivan County possibility — the Sullivan Cats are laced with incredible hamlets and places to stop for a hike, a bite or a drink, not to mention four more covered bridges. The county tourism department has organized a Dove Trail, a Craft Beverage Trail, and an Arts and Culture Trail; brochures for each of these and a lot more can be found at sullivancatskills.com.
DELIGHTS OF DELCO
The fastest way to get deep into gloriously scenic Delaware County from downstate is to take New York State Rt. 17 to exit 84 at Deposit, where you can pick up Route 10. Head north on 10 along the West Branch of the Delaware River and you’ll come to, and cross, the Cannonsville Reservoir, the largest and westernmost serving NYC.
You’ll also come to Hancock, which Time Out New York chose as #1 in their list of Best Small Towns in the USA. (October 10 and 11, they’ll be celebrating the Harvest Festival and Tractor Parade.) Hancock is the first stop on Delaware County’s River, Road and Rail Art Trail; you’ll find the full trail map at hancockpartners.org.
View from SUNY Delhi
Blenheim Books, Hobart, NY.
IN DELAWARE'S CENTER
Continuing northeast on 10, you’ll arrive in the charming college town of Delhi, the geographic center of Delaware County. If you happen to be touring between September 21-29, consider checking out the masterworks of "Delaware County Town and Country Quilters" at the Delaware County Historical Association here, and if you’re ready for refreshments, peep the gourmet goodies at Blue Bee Cafe and/or Tay Tea.
Continuing northeast, you’ll pass through Bloomville and South Kortright. Bloomville is a great place to plan to park, stretch your legs, and get immersed — just east of the hamlet is an entrance to the Catskill Scenic Trail, 26 miles of stunning terrain originally carved out for the Ulster and Delaware Railroad.
BOOK LOVER'S PARADISE
Your next major village is Hobart, the Book Village of the Catskills. Book lovers should not and must not resist stopping to browse the eight distinctive bookstores that give it its name, open on weekends and holiday Mondays. Then comes Stamford, a destination spot since 1870, rich in good eats, nifty retail, art and fun. There’s a farm winery, Blue Sky, and a gallery, Headwaters Arts Center, You’ll find nifty antique shops and the justly renowned Mount Utsayantha Fire Tower. Follow signs on 23 East to find signs that will guide you to the summit with superb 360-degree views. You can also rent bikes at Big Lug Bicycle Outfitter to check out more of that delicious rail trail.
View from Mount Utsayantha Fire Tower. Photo by Andy Arthur
Photo by Andy Arthur. John Burroughs Memorial State Historic Site.
Leaving Stamford, take Route 23 East, which crosses the West Branch of the Delaware just one mile south of its beginning. You’ll wind around two 3,000-foot peaks on your way into the justly named, peaceful hamlet of Grand Gorge, which is part of the town of Roxbury; there’s a nifty army/navy surplus shop here, Military Collection.
FUN, FUNKY ROXBURY
Turn south onto Route 30 to head into the town’s central hamlet. The Roxbury Arts Group has been keeping it lively around here for decades; in the town’s central hamlet, you’ll find groovy local crafts at the Roxbury General Store. The John Burroughs Memorial State Historic Site (aka Woodchuck Lodge) is undergoing interior renovations this year, but there are trails and picnic spots there, and Burroughs spent more time outdoors than in anyway.
Continue south on Route 30 and it will lead you over to Margaretville, worth exploring in its own right, with lots of quirky retail (check out Home Goods, Species by the Thousands, and the Happy Giraffe) and good food.
Route 30 runs into Route 28 here; head east for a very pretty hour’s drive to Kingston. If it’s dinnertime, lucky you, you’ll soon arrive at the Hickory BBQ. Of course, you’ll have to stop back up here at some point to visit Andes and maybe Bovina; check out the good folks at greatwesterncatskills.com for a whole host of other good things.
Walkway Over the Hudson.
Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site. Photo by Jim Cheney.
PEEP THE MIGHTY RIVER LIKE A MILLIONAIRE
Hudson River viewsheds are glorious in leaf season, and from Route 9 in Dutchess County you will find many opportunities to enjoy the views once coveted and inhabited by the rich and powerful, now open to the public for free. These are homes built by folks who could have built homes anywhere in the world. These are the places they chose, and you’ll see why.
First, though, take some time to explore Walkway Over the Hudson in Poughkeepsie. The Walkway has swiftly become a premier leaf peeper destination and for good reason. There’s no better place from which to marvel at our mighty river, dressed in her autumn glad rags.
PEEP THE MIGHTY A COLORFUL HISTORY
Head to Hyde Park, where the opulent Vanderbilt Mansion National Historic Site awaits. You can take a guided tour or just enjoy the grounds, which are free and open every day. Frederic Vanderbilt’s passion for trees and formal gardens is evident in the meticulously landscaped grounds, designed by renowned architect Frederick Law Olmsted. Gaze upon breathtaking vistas of the Hudson River and Catskill Mountains from this idyllic setting.
Just a stone's throw away lies Springwood, the home of President Franklin D. Roosevelt. Explore the estate, now a National Historic Site, and gain a deeper understanding of the life and legacy of one of America's most consequential presidents. Immerse yourself in the history of the Roosevelt family and the pivotal role Springwood played during the Great Depression and World War II.
Poet's Walk. Photo Courtesy of Hudson Valley Illustrated
For nature enthusiasts seeking a dose of serenity, a visit to Poets' Walk in Red Hook is a must. Embark on a two-mile stroll through this meticulously sculpted landscape, a source of inspiration for literary and artistic giants like Washington Irving and Frederic Edwin Church. Breathe in the fresh air, admire the vibrant foliage, and soak in the panoramic views of the Catskills. The park remains open from dawn to dusk through the end of October, offering the perfect opportunity to experience the changing leaves at their peak.
After a day of exploring, unwind and recharge in the charming town of Rhinebeck. This delightful village boasts a vibrant main street lined with eclectic shops, art galleries, and renowned restaurants. Savor the local cuisine, sip on a glass of wine from a nearby vineyard, and immerse yourself in the warm hospitality that Rhinebeck is known for.
Venture beyond the river's edge and discover the rolling farmlands of Dutchess County. Embark on a scenic drive along Route 44, a picturesque route that winds its way from Poughkeepsie to Amenia. Witness the changing tapestry of the landscape as fields of golden hay give way to vibrant orchards and charming farm stands. With its rich history, breathtaking natural beauty, and small-town charm, the Hudson Valley promises an unforgettable autumn escape.
